1/21/2024 0 Comments Lattice work on a deck![]() Just went and bought a flush-cut saw at Lowe's. Install the screws so they just touch the material-DO NOT snug-up or tighten the screws-so as to allow the panels to move/slide as the wood moves. When I've installed these panels, I drill 5/16" holes in the panels, and use a #8-10 washer head screws. The wood will move-the plastic won't move at the same rate. In freezing climate regions, the lattice panels will crack, if firmly affixed to the wood. The panels need to be supported so as to prevent sagging and distortion. I've installed many 4x8 ft sheets lattice fencing, on several exterior projects. ![]() How is the long span of the 4x 8 ft lattice fence being supported, between the posts and rails? NOTE: plugging the pocket holes will prevent spiders, and other critters, from building nests in the holes. Sand the protruding plug flush with an ROS. The file card stock will also protect the surface, from the inadvertent rubbing of the saw teeth on the surface, and the potential of scratching it. The hole plugs can be cut nearly flush, with the surrounding surface, using a flush-cut fine tooth saw.ģx5 file card stock can be used as a spacer, around the plug when cutting. Why do you suggest that one over the regular (blue) jig?ĭoes anyone have tips on finishing after using the wooden pocket hole plugs? I have the regular and the mini jig both but hadn't considered using the mini. It's a great tool and using it often in as many different type projects as I can will give me experience with it. Learning is one reason I want to use the jig. I could trim them down a lot with a knife or chisel I suppose. These will be on a vertical surface and the sander may be awkward to use. I used a belt sander to smooth the others I used but that was on a flat surface. BUT, sanding them smooth on the 4x4's will be a bit awkward. I used a few on another project and I like how they look. I got a bag of wooden ones in the master system. At first I was considering not covering the pocket holes as they will be behind the lattice and not as visible. I'm going to paint the whole thing so I could use putty to cover the screw holes that would be visible from inside the deck. My goal is not to have any screw holes in the 1x4. The 4x4's are 8' apart and the lattice is 4'x8'. The 1x4 will cover where two pieces of lattice come together and the screws that hold the lattice to the 4x4. The 1x4 will hide the screws holding the lattice to the 4x4.Īny suggestions on the jig and bit collar settings? Thanks in advance for any help.Īfter looking at the picture I may put wooden plugs in the pocket holes on the 4x4 prior to painting. The pocket holes will be drilled on the side of the 4x4 behind the lattice so the screws that hold the 1x4 against the lattice will not show. ![]() So I decided to provide a picture of the lattice and 1x4 against the 4x4. So adding the lattice between the 4x4 and 1x4 would allow drilling just a bit deeper pocket hole than the charts say. That should be like using 7/8" thick wood (the 1x4) instead of an actual 3/4" thick. lolĪnyway, I will be putting pocket holes in the side of a 4x4 (3 1/2" actual) and screwing into a 1x4 (3/4" actual). If anyone wants to do that they can see all the holes they want to. This way all I should see is the wood covering the lattice with no screws showing (unless you look behind the lattice. I want to use the jig to create pocket holes on both sides of the 4x4's so the screws will go through the 4x4 (from the sides) and into the 1x4's that are covering the area where the lattice sections meet and the screws that are holding the lattice to the 4x4. I want to attach the lattice to one side of the 4x4 with screws. I am redoing my deck around the pool and want to put lattice up. ![]()
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